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Post by wollastoni on Dec 13, 2014 22:04:56 GMT
I have tried many method to relax butterflies (injection, gin, wet sand...) but I think the most effective one is the simplest one !
All you need is : - a transparent hermetic tupperware (or a Chinese soup recipient) - toilet paper - a glass with hot water inside (boiled water that you put in a glass)
1/ open the transparent tupperware 2/ fill 1/4 of the tupperware with toilet paper 3/ put a bit of hot water on it 4/ fill the rest of the tupperware with toilet paper, the superior part must not be wet. If wet, replace the toilet paper of the superior part by new toilet paper. 5/ take your butterfly from the enveloppe by the legs with a forceps 6/ dip only the antennaes of the butterfly in the glass of hot water 7/ put the butterfly in the tupperware and close this one 8/ go to bed 9/ wake up, you have a perfectly relaxed butterfly
Why should the tupperware be transparent ? --> to be able to control it before going to bed, if you have put too much hot water, you will see too much condensation on it. Just remove some wet toilet paper and replace it by new one.
Why dipping the antennaes into hot water ? --> because badly relaxed antennae will explode easily when you try to spread your butterfly
Does it work with very old papered butterflies ? --> yes it does
Does it work with all butterflies ? --> it works with all classic butterflies from Lycaenidae to Papilionidae. Butterflies known for their very strong thorax like Charaxes and Agrias may need another method (like the injection method)
Last tip : - once relaxed, before spreading your butterfly, open his wings with an entomological forceps and push several times on it, as if the butterfly was flying. It will help finish the relaxing.
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Post by louisianacurmudgeon on Dec 18, 2014 22:36:45 GMT
I have this pdf currently in press December 2014 concerning how to make relaxing chambers.
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Post by xavm (Xavier) on Jan 6, 2015 14:54:46 GMT
Hello All,
Chloro-cresol is really efficient, however mainly available in the USA (bioquip) and can not be shipped to EU as being a dangerous goods.
Few ml of ethanol in the wet chamber will prefer blue butterflies to turn Brown or grazing-like shape.
One warm drop of dish-washing liquid on a torax will immediately relax small butterflies (eg. small Thymelicus, Lycaenids....)
XavM
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2015 15:57:32 GMT
Just to add to what Olivier says, I have followed this method for many years and never had a problem except
1. Never allow green ornithoptera to come into direct contact with any water whatsoever unless you want staining.
2. Never allow certain Lycaenidae to have contact with water, especially maculinea, leave them in the envelopes, they will easily relax in 24 hours this way otherwise you will ruin them.
3. For agrias, prepona, charaxes these may require 2 or even 3 days, never even attempt to spread unless they are ready, you will have a wrestling match with them otherwise and you WILL lose.
4. Use a mould prohibitor, a few flakes of naphthalene in the relaxer will do, if leaving in rugged specimens for more than 2 days this is advisable.
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Post by cabintom on Jan 6, 2015 19:24:23 GMT
One warm drop of dish-washing liquid on a torax will immediately relax small butterflies (eg. small Thymelicus, Lycaenids....) How warm? and how do you prevent the soap from getting on the wings? (I assume it wouldn't be good for the wings...) Thanks, Tom
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Post by xavm (Xavier) on Jan 7, 2015 8:40:43 GMT
Hi Tom,
Hot water from the tap is sufficient, then take a small drop with a pin and deposit onto the mesothorax. Such small drop will not get on the wings.
I hope this helps. Xavier
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Post by wollastoni on Jan 7, 2015 8:51:28 GMT
Interesting, it is the first time I heard about the dish-washing liquid technique!
Xavier, do you mix the dish-washing liquid with hot water before deposing the drop on the mesothorax ? Or do you apply a drop of pure dish-washing liquid ?
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cormion
New Aurelian
Posts: 6
Country: France
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Post by cormion on Jan 7, 2015 9:14:55 GMT
Hi Olivier,
The use of dish-washing liquid technique come from specialists of microlépidoptera. It's complementary with amoniac injenction technique, but more secure. It's a quite good technique for Lycaenidae, but you have to mix dish-washing liquid with hot water.
Yvan
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Post by wollastoni on Jan 7, 2015 9:29:11 GMT
OK clear, I will try it. Always happy to discover new techniques !
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Post by xavm (Xavier) on Jan 7, 2015 11:28:58 GMT
Hi Olivier, The use of dish-washing liquid technique come from specialists of microlépidoptera. It's complementary with amoniac injenction technique, but more secure. It's a quite good technique for Lycaenidae, but you have to mix dish-washing liquid with hot water. Yvan
I got the technique from Yvan (merci ) and it works very well for Lycaenids.
I tried on dried Thymelicus christi which then became very easy to prepare.
Cheers, Xavier
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Post by cabintom on Jan 7, 2015 16:09:26 GMT
Equal parts soap and warm tap water? And once applied how long should I wait before setting?
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Post by cabintom on Jan 10, 2015 6:03:40 GMT
I made an attempt at this warm dish-soap technique and failed miserably... the thorax didn't soften very well... maybe I needed to let it sit longer. Oh well.
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homard
New Aurelian
Posts: 19
Country: Russia
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Post by homard on Jan 16, 2015 17:37:04 GMT
I cannot imagine how you boys would put even a tiny droplet of a dish-water fluid on the thorax of a dried Lycaenid! If it's wings are a tightly upside, no chance to put anything there! Even with the relaxed specimens? I have difficulty to simpy insert a pin into! I speak about our small palaearctic Lycaenids who usually are 1.5-2 cm in a wingspan.
Of the bigger tropics, I used ammonia injection with a syringle trough a tiny "diabetes" needle. Again, it works well in a conjunction with the traditional relaxing methods.
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troidescriton
New Aurelian
Hobbyist here! Love butterflies
Posts: 18
Country: United Kingdom
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Post by troidescriton on Jul 15, 2015 21:59:03 GMT
Just to add to what Olivier says, I have followed this method for many years and never had a problem except 1. Never allow green ornithoptera to come into direct contact with any water whatsoever unless you want staining. 2. Never allow certain Lycaenidae to have contact with water, especially maculinea, leave them in the envelopes, they will easily relax in 24 hours this way otherwise you will ruin them. 3. For agrias, prepona, charaxes these may require 2 or even 3 days, never even attempt to spread unless they are ready, you will have a wrestling match with them otherwise and you WILL lose. 4. Use a mould prohibitor, a few flakes of naphthalene in the relaxer will do, if leaving in rugged specimens for more than 2 days this is advisable. Just after reading this, I ran over to my ornitho Primaus Aurana in the relaxing chamber. One wing underside is golden now and the other has orange streaks. Somebody kill me now UPDATE: Thankfully I saved it quickly!! I checked on it and the wings are back to new! Thanks for the info!
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Post by deliasfanatic on Jul 16, 2015 0:40:07 GMT
The wing colour of green birdwings always changes from moisture in the relaxer - don't worry, it's only temporary
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