betta132
New Aurelian
Roughly 50% of an idea what I'm doing.
Posts: 22 
Country: Central Texas
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Post by betta132 on Sept 14, 2016 22:17:53 GMT
I'd like to buy some butterflies and/or moths of little to no value that I can use for spreading practice. I don't intend to actually display them, so they don't have to be in good shape at all, in fact I'd rather they not be- I'll probably mess up. I'm looking for things with missing wings, holes, insect wear, anything, as long as at least two wings are still attached to a reasonably intact thorax. Might also take any sort of winged insect that people would normally display with the wings out- large flies, mantids, and the like.
Does anyone have anything like this on hand?
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Post by Paul K on Sept 15, 2016 4:01:58 GMT
Just get the net and go outside. There should be still some cabbage whites around.  . Paul |
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Post by exoticimports on Sept 15, 2016 12:46:20 GMT
Cicadas are particularly easy since the wing veins are so strong, and would make great practice.
Chuck
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Sept 15, 2016 15:20:15 GMT
Best practice is to catch and mount your own material, that's how most people learn about setting/spreading when they are starting out, cheaper too.
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Post by deliasfanatic on Sept 15, 2016 17:58:12 GMT
I don't disagree about catching one's own material, but mounting papered material will still take additional practice, since the ease of positioning fresh wings vs those that have been dried and folded is quite different. If you haven't worked with dried specimens yet, you'll find that the wings are a lot less flexible and supple than fresh material. It's a good idea, when mounting dried butterflies or moths, to grip the wings at the base with forceps and flex them up and down a few times before beginning to position them. To do this, I place the pin through the thorax first, while pinching the thorax to partly open the wings; then, while holding the pin (the part that extends below the body) between thumb and forefinger, grip the wings with forceps as close to the bases as possible, then "exercise" them by flexing them a few times. It's best to grip the base of the forewing and let the hindwings follow on their own; one needs greater delicacy to grip the latter, as they're not as firmly attached and are more apt to break off than forewings. It's definitely a technique that needs practice with damaged specimens first!
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Post by mcheki on Sept 15, 2016 18:26:57 GMT
I would like to help as I have some suitable old papered tropical specimens that are in poor condition in a box somewhere, However I am in England so that may be a problem? Get in touch if not a problem.
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betta132
New Aurelian
Roughly 50% of an idea what I'm doing.
Posts: 22
Country: Central Texas
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Post by betta132 on Sept 16, 2016 2:05:45 GMT
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Post by deliasfanatic on Sept 16, 2016 3:03:07 GMT
They do need to be smooth - don't get the type with ridges, etc. that are for dissecting (for frogs, for example).
BioQuip in California is the main supplier in the USA; you can go to their website to see a lot of supplies. Shipping is usually quite high, but if you need multiple items in one box, it's not so bad. You can probably use stamp collector forceps too, but they have to be smooth-edged metal with a round tip (don't get the pointed type).
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Post by Paul K on Sept 16, 2016 6:05:27 GMT
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Post by deliasfanatic on Sept 16, 2016 13:44:41 GMT
Yes, the bottom one looks OK.
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Post by Adam Cotton on Sept 16, 2016 16:44:35 GMT
Campbell Smith gave me a pair that look similar to the top one back in 2006. This type is ideal for handling specimen labels when removing them from pins.
Adam.
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betta132
New Aurelian
Roughly 50% of an idea what I'm doing.
Posts: 22
Country: Central Texas
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Post by betta132 on Sept 17, 2016 19:47:18 GMT
Great, thank you!
I might be able to get some fresh dragonflies soon, any tips for them?
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Post by Adam Cotton on Sept 17, 2016 20:17:07 GMT
It is very difficult indeed to preserve dragonflies so that they maintain their body colour. Perhaps someone here knows how (it probably involves removing the whole of the insides of the abdomen and drying them out very fast). Normally the body turns black quite soon after death.
Otherwise spreading is similar to the methods for butterflies and other insects.
Adam.
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betta132
New Aurelian
Roughly 50% of an idea what I'm doing.
Posts: 22
Country: Central Texas
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Post by betta132 on Sept 17, 2016 21:41:48 GMT
I've read that soaking the dead ones in acetone for 24 hours can help keep the colors. Any truth with that?
Are damselflies any different? I have a green damselfly from Ebay that is very clearly still green, aside from a blackish area on one wing, but I'm not sure if that's species-specific.
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Post by Paul K on Sept 18, 2016 1:25:00 GMT
I've read that soaking the dead ones in acetone for 24 hours can help keep the colors. Any truth with that? Are damselflies any different? I have a green damselfly from Ebay that is very clearly still green, aside from a blackish area on one wing, but I'm not sure if that's species-specific. Aceton dissolved fats so if turning black is caused by fats/grease it may help . Paul |
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