billg
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Post by billg on Jan 15, 2019 6:04:48 GMT
I take a fine paintbrush and get wet with gin. Then seep the fluid into the joint where the mandible meets the head. Do this several times and wait a few minutes each time. Then gently work it with your fingers to loosen/free it. If not successful, repeat until it works. I’ve loosened many large stuck mandibles this way when the rest of the beetle was softened. It takes patience, but is better than breaking it. Since the beetle was in alcohol, you may have an issue that may cause this method to not work. The bugs I did it with were not stored in alcohol. Good luck.....it’s worth a try. The gin is the kind one drinks and I use a dry gin.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Jan 8, 2019 0:47:43 GMT
My guess is a dung beetle based on what I can see of the hind legs.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Jan 7, 2019 6:28:15 GMT
I’ve used them (vapona strips) for decades and w great success. My pieces are cut into abt 1/2” x 1/2” and one edge is cut at a 45 degree angle. By doing this, I can easily push a pin through abt half way through the angled edge. Also....I use those yellow headed sewing pins for this for two reasons. First, they’re stronger and have a large yellow pin head to use to push with. Second, the yellow head always is showing so I don’t accidentally damage a wing whereas as regular or insect pins can easily be hidden/missed when putting in/positioning specimens, and, before u know it, you’ve split a wing. I usually change out the pieces every two or so years. If I’ve opened a drawer frequently, I might do it sooner.
Preventing pest entry is critical. All my mounted specimens are put in my laboratory incubator for a few days at 115 degrees. This assures me that no living matter is riding along in or on the specimen when putting it in my drawer.
Lastly, I take a brush with cedar oil on it (diluted) and “paint” a strip of oil along the lip of the drawer to act as a deterrent to entry from outside the drawer. This is done once a year.
Results.....no dermestid infestation for many many years. Btw....my older strip pieces being replaced go into papered material containers, spare parts tubs, or rikers when I occasionally use them. A taped (w electricians tape) shut riker mount w a piece or two of vapona will keep pests out for many years. When my mom passed, I came across a riker I made for her when I was a teen in the 1970s which was totally pest free after 38 years.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Nov 30, 2018 3:57:35 GMT
Nice.....thanks for sharing. Everybody knows I like to see and post pics of drawers.
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billg
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Posts: 29
Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Nov 21, 2017 13:54:14 GMT
"I find that each and every time I look upon my Phoebis avelleneda, Teinopalpus imperialis, Papilio homerus, Bhutanitis lidderdali, Morpho absoloni, or what have you; my eyes still "boggle" at their magnificence and I am proud to have them (over any of my other things) !"
Trehopr1,
I agree completely with you on this. I, too, have to purchase bugs in order to have those gems from afar. I have greatly reduced this purchased part section of my collection to perhaps 20%. Having a representation of some of the insect worlds finest is good enough for me. I used to have many thousands of such insects, but sold off the bulk keeping the ones I so like to drool over in both Leps and Coleops. I'll also say that A1 is not a must for me, but I like A1 when I can afford it. If some special bug is only available in less than A1, I'll usually go for it......if it has data. Some of my rarest coolest stuff is in good shape, looks really nice, but is not technically A1.
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billg
New Aurelian
Posts: 29
Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Nov 20, 2017 15:37:53 GMT
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Nov 20, 2017 15:33:45 GMT
Interesting topic and thoughts.j First, bear in mind that I used to own a pair of the Goldens mentioned and the intermediates when I focused on the birdwings. In fact they can still be seen at Nagypal's website. So I have also been drawn into this arena....admittedly. I got rid of them a ways back and got, in trade, bugs I really did go nuts after like my Morpho cypris female..form cyanites.... among others. Since then, I've come to prefer only the natural aberrations. Several of my friends are big into forced matings and creative crosses and the results are indeed cool. While the results are interesting and all, I no longer desire such specimens in my collection. They enjoy doing it and I'm happy for them....it's just not my cup of tea. Being totally honest, I am going to be rearing stock of a rare, but naturally occurring strain..form this spring. I have paid to receive the genetic stock of the melanistic Antheraea polyphemus which I find incredible. I paid for this male specimen a ways back, but do desire to rear up some more. I also did catch in the wild my polyphemus gynandromorph which I consider a treasure. Field collected aberrations are much desired. It it boils down to personal taste and collection preferences. The oddballs created are neat to look at and can be gorgeous like some of the Actias jobs. The UV treatment so common today with the birdwings makes what was once a treasure (form niclasi) almost non-existent and that is a shame. Many years ago, I was lined up to get a O. rubianus form niclasi, but nowadays, I wouldn't even consider buying one after the goofy UV alterations so commonly done these days have virtually ruined the possibility of getting a genuine form niclasi.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2017 21:36:40 GMT
We had a fair number of V. cardui this year. A few years ago I got the oddball in pic. Two days later, I got a second one.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2017 3:33:48 GMT
Interesting thoughts. All I can say is that I have not yet tried doing many geometrids in it. I can only recall doing the incubator with green...A. lunas and with white...Leopard moths....scribbona and they came out fine. I'll try a few green and a few white micros I caught in LA and report later on.
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billg
New Aurelian
Posts: 29
Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2017 0:27:33 GMT
Hi, i use a laboratory incubator as seen in the link below. Following the pic of mine is a link to the best place I found with the best material and prices. One thing I will say is that if one mounts freshly caught specimens, mount them and wait two or three days prior to putting in incubator. If the specimens was a mounted from having been softened from an envelop, it can be put in right away. Fresh material needs to have the outer exoskeleton harden a bit before any kind of heating to prevent oils from seeping out via a fresh bug. Fresh material a few days old will be done dry and fine in 36 to 48 hours in a forced air incubator at 115 degrees.......longer if in a convectional heated unit. Specimens that were mounted from having been in envelopes will need 20 to 24 hours in the unit. More information is in the link below.....plz check out. collector-secret.proboards.com/thread/2037/mothball-substitute
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2017 0:13:15 GMT
Here it is even closer....sorry abt pic quality. The screen is folded making a zig zag and the specimen rests nicely in the groove w the wings resting on the upper edge of each bent groove.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 31, 2017 0:09:53 GMT
Hi wallostoni, I always use pcb as some specimens may have dormant mold on them I can't see. i use room temperature distilled water to wet the sponges. The heat from the bulbs rises and nicely warms up the container w 100% humidity. They are 25 watt tubular bulbs used for aquariums. The screen racks (hopefully easier to see now) keep the bug from direct contact with the sponges. It also helps keeping the wings from getting too wet.
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billg
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Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 30, 2017 17:23:32 GMT
Thanks Wollastoni and AdamCotton. I've spent the last few hours browsing through the site and it looks just great. I'm having fun.
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billg
New Aurelian
Posts: 29
Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 30, 2017 16:39:19 GMT
Love these guys. Btw......does anyone know the species of this one? Mounted...it's about 7 in. across.
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billg
New Aurelian
Posts: 29
Country: U.S.A.
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Post by billg on Oct 30, 2017 16:10:57 GMT
When I have to repair, I use a white wood glue like Elmer's mixed with Isopropyl alcohol. My ratio is usually 1/3 glue to 2/3 alcohol. When done carefully, the alcohol evaporates leaving a very thin film of glue. This also dries on the slow side compared to super glue and one can adjust if needed. It will dry quickly, but not instantly (super glue) which is more risky.
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