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Post by joniverson on Aug 13, 2017 14:52:43 GMT
The way I've been drying my insects is to first gently heat them for a couple of days in a toaster oven (at around 120 F), and then placing the mounting board with insect into a sealed container containing silica gel. I'm not sure how I should be using the gel; everytime I read about silica gel drying something similar (like flowers), the flowers are basically buried in the gel for a couple of days until dried. I've been hesitant to try this with my bugs because I'm afraid the legs/ antennae are so fragile that they would break off, so I've just been placing gel into the container separately and not touching the insect or board. Can this way also finish drying of the insect? What quantity of gel should I be using and for how long? Thanks.
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Post by Paul K on Aug 13, 2017 20:52:34 GMT
Why would you complicate the simple process of drying insects. I dry all specimen from large sphinx moths to small Lycaenidae right in open cabinet on spreading boards. You may want to use anti ant cups just in case. Leave them for two weeks and they are perfectly dry without cooking them and treat them with silica gel.
Paul
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Post by joniverson on Aug 13, 2017 21:02:58 GMT
I'm pretty new at this, but climate is quite humid here and I didn't think a simple drying out in air was enough. I have had unused but washed utensils mold in relatively short time if I don't keep an eye on moisture.
The toaster oven seems to do a pretty good job jump starting the process as the legs are immobile after two days; the idea was to possibly eliminate any remaining moisture in the sealed silica gel container, but I didn't like the idea of having direct insect contact with the gel.
Like I say, I'm a newbie at this after a many year hiatus, but I'm going to be placing some beetles in a sealed domed enclosure soon and wanted to be sure any remaining moisture was gone. I'll be hiding a few moth balls within the enclosure and I could even place a small amount of gel in there before sealing if necessary.
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Post by joniverson on Aug 22, 2017 11:18:36 GMT
The major key for using silica gel is monitoring humidity within the air tight enclosure. Circular humidity meters like used for reptiles in aquariums can be had fairly cheaply at a local pet store. Dropping one in sealed airtight bag or container has shown whether or not the gel is doing its job after 24 hours. So far, I'm finding that the gel is doing an excellent job keeping the enclosed environment dry. For any questionable gel, it's a no brainer to drop a meter into the container or bag to check humidity and determine whether or not the gel needs "recharged".
For recharging, I'm finding that I can bake the gel in 2 pound amounts in the oven at 275 F for 10-12 hours for optimum absorbing capability. An alternative, far less expensive option is silica gel based "kitty litter". Like standard gel, it too can be recharged and behaves the same... you just have to make sure the kitty litter is silica gel based with no additives, but you get a lot more for the price this way! Note that it won't have the "indicator beads" that normal silica gel does, but see my note below.
A microwave can be used for quick recharge, but I'm finding it easier to "burn" the usefulness out of the gel so that it doesn't absorb as well, plus most of the humidity tests afterward are showing that the microwave recharged gel doesn't reduce the humidity to as low of values as oven recharged.
One other thing I'm finding is that the indicator beads that turn color when the gel needs recharged only have average accuracy and one cannot depend on them entirely.
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