Problem rehydrating butterflies

[Quinones8]

Hi,

I am new in the insect hobby and I try to make a butterfly collection.  I been trying to pin some butterfly that I Bought on eBay, but I been having trouble rehydrating them. I try two different ways that I found on youtube but I can't seem to get them hydrated to a point where the wings open easily enough for pinning without wilting the wings. Can anyone help me with this problem? Thank you in advance 









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[deliasfanatic]

What methods are you using?

I use a tupperware-type container with a wet cloth folded on the bottom; above it, I position a plastic screen (a type sold by craft stores) on which to set the specimens. Make the cloth fairly wet, but not dripping; I keep a few moth balls (naphtha) in the bottom to discourage mold.

Open the envelopes, or clip the corners carefully, to allow moisture to penetrate them fully. Depending on the type of specimens, they're typically soft enough in 2-4 days (1 day for very small (Lycaenidae), 2 days for Pieridae, 3-4 days for larger specimens). For very large specimens, you may need to inject them to get them soft enough. I use a hypodermic with water, but some use vodka for this.

It takes practice to get accustomed to the proper feel when specimens are ready. I'd strongly suggest using damaged or very common specimens for practice before moving on to better material.

[Deleted]

Rehydrating can be very challenging for beginners but with practice it becomes second nature, I use both methods that Deliasfantastic uses, damp paper towels in a plastic box if you are not in any hurry, however there are some genus that can be still quite stiff using this method, eg charaxes, prepona and some ornithoptera, for these I always inject using a syringe, it can be really a quick method of relaxing specimens, especially if you are as impatient as I am but don't try to use this method for your first try on anything rare or it could end in tears.

[Adam Cotton]

Sometimes larger butterflies are already rehydrated but the thoracic muscles that control the wings are stiff so the wings still don't open up. They then need 'coaxing' to loosen them up before the butterfly can be spread.

There are several different ways to do this, including the advanced method that some people, particularly in the US, use of actually cutting these muscles with a blade (I think it's called the Klots method). Often pinching just below the point where the wings meet the thorax helps loosen them up and they can be spread after that.

Note that if you use the injection method you also need to dip the antennae in very hot water, otherwise they stay brittle, and generally using this method the wings tend not to be quite as flat as after a proper 'relax'. Personally I always think it is better not to take shortcuts unless necessary.

Adam.

[cabintom]

The method I'm using is evolving a bit but currently, I'm injecting most specimens (except the very small ones) with warm/hotish water (pushing about 5ml through the thorax) and submerging the antennae in said water for 20ish seconds. Afterwards I place the specimens back in their envelopes, left slightly open, and place them in a airtight plastic container that has a layer of damp sand at the bottom covered by a fairly thick layer of paper towels. I usually then place the box next to my computer's fan for a few hours (this makes the box nice an humid). Then I wait a couple of days and everything is usually nice and ready for spreading.

I have a small syringe (1ml) with a thin needle that I've been practicing using on Hesperiidae with mostly success. The trick I've found is that I need to start by only pushing the very tip of the needle into the thorax, then push a small amount of hot water to get the entry point a bit wet, this allows me to then gently push the needle further into the thorax. If the specimen is small and dry it's quite brittle so pushing the needle too far into the thorax too quickly can be catastrophic.

For smaller bodied small butterflies (most Lycaenids) I've also been soaking the thorax in hot water for 20-30 seconds before placing them in the humidifier... I'm not sure if this is actually helping, but it seems to me that after a couple of days they're easier to spread than when I was not taking this step.

[Quinones8]

Thanks everybody for the information I'm trying everything but I guess I just need to continue practicing until I get better. this can be a interesting hobby but frustrating at the same time.

[NathanGrosse]

A lot of good methods on here. I've been using the traditional tupperware container with paper towels method for a long time, but I've now found a couple new techniques to try! Thank you, all!

[geert]

I use allways fresh leaves of Prunus laurocerasus , cut in very small peaces . the fresh leaves have an etheric smell that kills the insects , keep them moistered and also protect them from mold. Even with frozen specimens , I use this method .

[nomad]

That's interesting because that is what the early British collectors used in the  earlier part of the 19th century. As an English name we call it Cherry laurel. I believe they discontinued to use it because it was taking to long to kill insects especially the larger ones.

[Paul K]

The leaves contain larger concentrations of hydrogen cyanide which is a poison to insects also to human.

[nomad]

I agree and for many years charged cyanide plaster of paris or cotton wool killing bottles were the standard fair and are still used today by some. Collectors have always mixed with toxic chemicals such as this and paradichlorobenzene and naphthalene.
 

[jmg]

To rehydrate butterflies, I use a plastic box whose bottom is lined with wet sand. I place the envelopes open for moisture to penetrate well. If I leave the butterflies in these envelopes it is to avoid the loss or confusion in the collecting data.

For the big butterflies (Polyura, Charaxes, Prepona, Archaeoprepona, Ornithoptera, Brassolini) whose thoracic muscles remain more or less rigid, I do not use the "Klots method" evoked by Adam Cotton. But that of "gymnastics" : once the butterfly pinned, gently but more and more firmly, I move several times the fore wings parallel to the axis of the body. This relaxes these muscles and allows easy display. I have successfully yesterday spread several Ornithoptera (including huge females) from Solomon Islands (Rannonga) and Troides from Tanimbar and Mount Dempo. The latter had stayed 3 or 4 days in the humidifier container. For antennas, I also use a fine brush wet with hot water.

However, I did not know that vodka could be used to rehydrate insects . Why vodka rather than gin? At home, vodka accompanies smoked fish!

[xavm (Xavier)]

For small butterflies, I use my rehydrator 2.0: a plastic box with 3 cm of sand a thin plastozote (1 mm) on which I directly put the butterflies:
The text is in French, but images are self explanatory insecterra.forumactif.com/t28662-rehydrateur-a-papillons-2-0.
I then add some room tempature water and a tissue on the top before closing the box (this prevent drops due to condensation to fall onto the butterflies).
For blue Lycaenids, I add few ml of alcohol (thanks for Yvan for the tips).

For bigger butterflies... injection of warm water is a good way for relaxing butterflies and moths.